Buyer's guide how to buy best used SUV "Mercedes Benz M-Class (1998-2005) 4x4 second hand review"

BestUsedCarReview - The Mercedes Benz M-Class is nominally a rival to the premium Land Rovers and Jeep Grand Cherokee but has a very different feel to it, with very little in the way of adventurous off-road styling and a sleek but rather bland body and uncluttered interior that makes it seem more like an MPV than an SUV.While on that point it’s worth noting that some were kitted out as seven-seaters, but don’t buy one until you’ve checked that the seven potential occupants can all sit comfortably inside - we don’t think that will happen because the interior just isn’t that roomy.

The promotional material at the launch emphasised its capability as an off-roader, but in spite of its excellent permanent four-wheel drive system, low range gearing and in some versions height-adjustable suspension, the M-Class is not a car that takes kindly to mud-terrain tyres and winch bumpers so don’t consider one, even at a budget price, unless it’s purely for use as a road-only family estate. As a road car we liked the Mercedes from the start, praising the ride comfort from the all-independent suspension and the light but balanced steering, pointing out in an early road test that it seemed very reasonably priced compared with, for instance, the similarly road-biased BMW X5. All versions of the

Mercedes Benz M-Class have a good basic specification, including climate control, electric seat adjustment and remote central locking, while the SE has enhanced interior materials including burr walnut inserts. The Sport model has 19-inch alloys, extra chrome trim outside and Alcantara leather and aluminium trim inside. Even so, first buyers will have added a whole range of luxury extras in some cases adding well over £10,000 to the original purchase price of their car, features that now simply add to the value of buying one secondhand at a knockdown price. Look out for leather trim, the Design two-tone upholstery with wood trim originally a £4420 option, also the electric sunroof – find one with the glass sunroof, the louvred one had a tendency to jam and is expensive to put right. Bose sound systems, perhaps with bootmounted CD autochanger, satnav and cellphone preparation were popular upgrades, some will have bi-xenon headlamps, resist one with the external spare wheel carrier, it restricts the rear view when you’re driving.

With £3000 to spend you’ll find yourself choosing from a wide range of early-generation cars dating from anywhere between 1999 and 2005 depending on mileage and equipment, most of them with the 2.7-litre turbodiesel engine, though for better refinement and performance do consider one of the smoothrevving 3.2-litre or 3.7-litre petrol V6 variants. An interesting indication of how depreciation can hit luxury cars is how little dealers are willing to offer as a trade-in value on what ought to be seen as a desirable premium SUV,  even more than 10 years on. As a result you’ll find large numbers of higher-mileage older ML320 and ML270s being offered for sale by private sellers. Buying privately can be advantageous if you take the usual precautions such as making sure the registration certifi cate matches the name and address of the seller and making sure it all runs well on a test drive.

The interior of the ML is unquestionably opulent, particularly in the higher-specification SE versions, yet compared with the Range Rover it seems rather blandly styled. No matter, since the driving position is quite natural and controls are all well placed, higher specification models featuring a whole raft of fingertip controls on the steering wheel, on some models this includes paddle-shift buttons for the automatic transmission. 

You can’t expect an old car at this price to be in perfect condition, but there was always some concern about the assembly quality of this Americanbuilt vehicle, so look for excessive sagging of the seats and attempts to hide or bodge dodgy trim and upholstery fabric. 

The 2.7 CRD turbodiesel is the engine of choice if economy is important, though as even with an oil-burner make sure it doesn’t blow excess smoke on acceleration which could point to worn injectors or a failing turbocharger – it could equally point to an aftermarket performance upgrade, smooth, quick acceleration will tell you but reject any car that feels sluggish, hesitant or jerky. The transmission on the turbodiesels also has to handle that low-rev torque so make sure the six-speed manual shifts smoothly and the clutch takes up progressively; similarly if the five-speed automatic is fitted check that it doesn’t slur changes too much and responds properly to the Tiptronic-type override.

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Buyer's guide to buy best used SUV "Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 second hand review"

BestUsedCarReview - We’ve always considered the Jeep Grand Cherokee to be a good-value purchase, and that’s particularly true for second-hand examples, since for a mere £3000 you’re talking a high specifi cation second generation Limited with the Mercedes 2.7 CRD engine, a car that sold for nearly £30,000 new in 2002 with a specification including leather upholstery, electric seat adjustment with heating and independent memory functions in each of the  two key fobs, dual-zone climate control, eight-speaker stereo with steering wheel controls, electrically adjustable and folding rear view mirrors, cruise control and rain sensing wipers.

If you’re looking for an off-road plaything there are high-mileage examples going for under £1000 - some with close on 200,000 miles on them which has to be some sort of commendation for the engines, which in most cases at this level will be the 4.0-litre straight six or 4.7-litre V8, the latter being particularly desirable as a relaxed and torquey off-road power plant, and no thirstier than the old-tech petrol six. It is worth shopping around for an Overland which has the superb Quadra Drive system which automatically locks front and rear differentials when conditions get difficult; note that this was also available as a £600 option on Limiteds, you might be lucky enough to find one of these at a good price.

The styling of the second generation Grand Cherokee was similar to the original but smoother and more aerodynamic, the leather-upholstered interior was just as opulently equipped, but more importantly improvements to the suspension settings and bushings meant mechanical refi nement and road behaviour were markedly better. In this respect the Grand can’t match the ride comfort of a Range Rover or Discovery, because although it has a thoroughly modern highrigidity monocoque bodyshell it rides on heavy-duty beam axles, coil-sprung but not as supple as an all-independent arrangement. This does at least qualify it as a worthy hard-core off-roader as well as a luxurious family estate, not to mention a competent towing car with a 3500kg capability.

Earliest examples from 1999 included a turbodiesel, the 3.1-litre VM unit, but this is best avoided as it lacks the refinement of the later and more powerful 2.7 CRD as used in the Mercedes M-Class. All versions have a four-speed automatic transmission with permanent four-wheel drive and a low range transfer gearbox. At first only the Limited specification was available, but for 2004 a base Sport and upgraded Overland versions were introduced; the Sport has cloth upholstery and a simpler air conditioning system, but it retains the electric seats, electric windows and remote locking. The Overland was the range-topper, the enhanced specification including a CD autochanger and an electric sunroof.

One key special edition to look out for is the 60^th Anniversary edition, introduced in July 2001 for a limited period, which was based on the 4.7 V8 Limited but adding the electric sunroof, a CD autochanger and metallic paint.

With the end of the run approaching, September 2004 saw three new topspecification variants on the scene, the Limited XS with 4.7 V8 or 2.7 CRD engine, the Platinum with the 2.7 CRD and the HO Platinum with the 4.7 V8. These all have satnav, as well as the electric sunroof, plus heated door mirrors and parking sensors, but these will be rare at under £3000.

Even at this low price it’s worth looking for a car with a good service record since the engines and particularly the automatic transmission are very sensitive to the quality of lubricants. The petrol engines - especially the ‘bulletproof’ 4.0-litre six - are generally reliable, and while the 2.7 CRD has Mercedes credibility, it can suffer the same problems as any other high-mileage diesel such as worn injectors, fouled recirculation systems and failing turbo bearings. Make sure the engine starts instantly from cold, doesn’t hesitate under acceleration and idles smoothly. It’s more important to ensure that the transmission works properly, look out for delays in gear selection, excessive engine revving between changes and excessive whining noises. One symptom is a reluctance to select fi rst and top gears, so the car pulls away in second and doesn’t go into its overdrive top when cruising, defi nitely one to avoid.

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Buyer's guide to buy best used SUV "Mitsubishi Shogun 4x4 sport second hand review"

BestUsedCarReview - We’ve always considered the Mitsubishi Shogun to be a bit overpriced, since it’s a used SUV with a reputation that somewhat embellishes reality. Even in its sleeker third generation form from 1999, the Shogun was always less refi ned and more cumbersome to drive than many of its rivals, yet its popularity - originally spurred by the realisation that it offered a more reliable and cheaper alternative to a Range Rover - continues unabated to an extent that your £3000 is unlikely to get you anything newer than a year 2000 model and with 150,000 miles on it at that; even higher-mileage previous generation (and more truck-like) models can command over £1000.

Nevertheless the post-1999 mitsubishi Shogun 4x4 sport has appeal for its more aggressive Dakar-inspired styling, particularly in the short-wheelbase version, and in the seven-seater functionality of the long wheelbase estate.

This was the first Mitsubishi Shogun to shrug off the conventional off-road vehicle transport structure and instead of a separate chassis and rigid axles it boasts a monocoque bodyshell and all-independent coil-sprung suspension, along with rack-andpinion steering the result being a more compliant quality of ride and sharper steering response. The Shogun is quite car-like to drive, though some might find the powered steering a little too light. However, the big estate rides comfortably and corners without too much body lean. Both diesel and petrol variants are lively performers, though the V6 needs to be revved to give of its best, while the strong mid-range torque of the diesel calls for fewer gearshifts to regain speed after a tight bend, making for more comfortable overall progress. It is also a better engine for off-roading, with torque peaking at 2000rpm. A five-speed manual transmission was standard, though an automatic was an option, some were four-speeders, others had the newer and more desirable five-speed box, so check the transmission before buying.

The Super Select four-wheel drive system is arguably more complex than it need be, particularly in a car that is unlikely to venture off-road, but it has appeal to gadget-lovers; for this generation a quieter chain-drive transfer box is used. In terms of straightforward off-road traction the Shogun is unstoppable, but it does lack ground clearance and the long wheelbase estate has a debilitatingly long overhang limiting its capability in tortuous terrain.

Equipment on all models of used car Mitsubishi shogun sport 4x4 is good, even the base GLX has tilt adjustable steering column, alloy wheels, electric heated mirrors and a four-speaker stereo, while the GLS adds a roof spoiler, body side-mouldings, front fog lamps, headlight washers, automatic air-conditioning, cruise control and height-adjustable driver’s seat. From 2001 the Classic replaced the GLX and Equippe replaced the GLS, while a new range-topping version, the Elegance, was introduced. Look out for the later Field, Animal and Warrior special editions, though these will be rare at under £3000.

The bold exterior styling of the used SUV mitsubishi Shogun is reflected in the interior with its heavy dashboard featuring a massive centre console giving the driver a feeling of being tucked into a cockpit, the comfortable and supportive armchair seat helping to enhance the driving experience. It’s nevertheless a roomy vehicle, with plenty of elbow room and headroom. The rear bench in the five-door is shaped to take three adults and has reclining backrests, with very little in the way of a transmission tunnel to make life uncomfortable for a central passenger. The mitsubishi Shogun sport stays good to 4x4 vehicle transport tradition in having the spare mounted on the sideways-opening tailgate, and so has good boot space, easily enough to accommodate the extra fold-up seat, which can be removed to leave a useful underfl oor storage space.

In spite of its reputation, the Mitsubishi Shogun sport isn’t totally infallible, listen for the groan of worn wheel bearings and the click or rumble of worn CV joints on the front axle, check for oil leaks from the rear differential and check the state of the brake discs as well as pads, which wear quickly especially on a car that’s been used for towing. Engine failures are not unknown, check for signs of ‘mayonnaise’ under the oil filler cap hinting at the possibility of impending gasket failure, and make sure the timing chain and its tensioners have been replaced on schedule - if you can’t be sure on a higher mileage car have the job done yourself as soon as possible, because a slipped timing chain can wreck the engine.

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Junkyard used bumper plates building tips for the cheap 4x4 accessories

Bumpers and body accessories are the first line of defense for our off-road vehicles, but that is just one of many jobs they perform. Bumpers provide anchors for spare tire mounts and hold extra fluids and maybe even a cooler, a winch, or a Hi-Lift jack. They also provide tow points for trailers and for extracting your buddies when they get stuck (we’re sure you never get stuck). In short, these areas of your rig do many important jobs, and it’s not a good idea to cheap out on them. Or is it?

If you’re like us, you like saving a dollar and gaining the knowledge and sense of accomplishment that comes from doing things yourself. Shiny new parts with installation instructions fresh out of the package are nice, but everything old is not garbage. One place that is full of stillusable parts and ideas that could add utility and strength to your 4x4’s bumpers is the junkyard. Used parts are inexpensive, and you never know what you might find in the yard. Always keep your eyes peeled while at the dirt-head wonderland that is the junkyard.

We love pick-a-part junkyards because you never know what you might find there. A benefit of the popularity of SUVs over the past 15years is that the junkyards are now full of them. Towhooks and other usable parts are there for the takinger, buying. Need a six-lug bumper-mounted tire carrier for your Toyota? How about parts from one of the thousands of Isuzu Rodeos/Honda Passports littering junkyards around the country? We bet you could retrofit the carrier to the tube work on the back of a trail rig. All the engineering is there for you to use.

If you don’t want the tire rack, the latch assembly is pretty cool and could be modified for use in any number of projects on a trail rig.

Need to flat-mount a tire in the back of your wheeler? This junkyard-fresh mount (from an Isuzu/Honda, hence its 6-on-5 1 /2 bolt pattern) would be easy to modify into a flat surface mount. This could hold a wheel and tire for any fullsize Jeep, Toyota, Nissan, GM half-ton, and so on. What if you run a 5-on-5 1/2 bolt pattern? Look for parts off of a Kia Sportage or Suzuki/Geo of sorts. For eight-lug tire rack parts, you’re going to have to look to an H2 Hummer.

This towhook is off a 2000-2010ish Toyota 4Runner (although Yotas back to the ’80s have similar hooks). The hook itself is going to be more than adequate for most 1/4- to 1/2-ton trail rigs. It is mounted using two bolts and has a stamped anchor plate made out of 1/4-inch plate. You could use the hook on your bumper and the stamped plate mount to hold down a spare tire, a jack, a cooler, or what have you.

We can’t wait till the old road-driven H2s and H3s start to trickle into the pick-a-part yards. They have lots of cool beef y towhooks and mounts on the bumpers (not to mention Gen III engines and heavy-duty drivetrain parts). Until then, ’90s GMs, Toyota, and newer Fords all have pretty decent tow points. These huge eyelets are from a Ford Super Duty and mount inside the framerail via three large bolts. It would be easy to add one or two of  these mounts to a flat surface at the front or rear of any off-road rig.

A receiver hitch is another part that’s easy to grab from junkyards and may already fit your vehicle. Some have seen almost no use and, with secure mounting to the frame, can be a great

place to start fabbing a front or rear bumper. You can then add a receiver-mounted winch and

towhooks, or use a front-mounted receiver to help back large trailers into tight spots.

Some yards will have medium-duty flatbed trucks on site. These can be a great place to grab cool parts, racks, and usabl e steel . We always look at the back of these trucks for pintle hitches, usable recessed signal lights, towhooks, straps, and toolboxes. Pintle hitches add military style to

the back of a trail rig. Plus they are a functional place to connect a towstrap and can cost more than $100 new. At the junkyard expect to pay $15 - $20.

The rear bumper on this old camper is 2x4x0.188-wall rectangular tubing. That’s a great platform for just about any bumper.

An old rental van could provide your tow or overland rig with a heavy- duty rear step bumper. It’s even dimple-died for extra traction and has a heavy-duty hitch. Just trim down the ends to match your truck’s width and come up with a durable mounting solution, and you have a bumper with easy camper/bed access.

Lots of medium- to heavy-duty trucks have long lengths of straight channel or tube in their frames or bed that you can repurpose to make bumpers. Cut off a few feet of this truck’s frame, lay it flat, and you’ve got a great channel to build a custom winch mount. Who cares if it’s got extra holes or a little patina? We’re betting you can get it for less than having channel cut at the steel store.

Ew! Booger welds that look like they are about to break under the weight of a tow-hook are not adding utility to any truck. Mounting this hook with graded hardware would have

been easy and much less likely to fail when those crappy welds let go. Some parts at the junkyard are better left to the steel smelter. If you’re not a qualified welder, bolt on your new towhooks.

If you’re a low- budget home fabricator, you can save a dime if you have the time,  tools, and knowhow. But if you’re better at making money at your day job and you need something that’s functional, fast, and guaran-teed to work, then rely on the professional s. We love the bumpers that Randy Ellis builds. They look effortless, work well for all their duties, are custom made to fit, and border on art—but you’ll have to visit Phoenix to get one built.

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Review the kind of SKID PLATE for your Four-wheel drive 4x4 accessories

GOD FORGIVES, ROCKS DON’T” goes the old saying. From the slick rocks of the South to the red rocks of Moab and the granite of the Rubicon, when you leave the pavement rocks are likely to be part of  your diet. The most common body damage we see is when the front tire drops off a boulder only to have it rearrange the sheetmetal between the tires. If you are lucky the door still opens.

Sheetmetal isn’t the only thing that needs protection though. Rocks are not picky. They are happy to smack your oil pan, transfer case, and differentials. Fortunately the aftermarket is full of companies offering innovative products to protect everything from your steering box back to the rear corners of your rig. We rounded up the latest and most innovative in protection accessories for Jeeps, Toyotas, and more.

SYNERGY MANUFACTURING JK SKID PLATE SYSTEM

Synergy Manufacturing makes oil pan, transmission, and transfer case skidplates for the Jeep Wrangler JK that can be purchased individually or as a complete kit. All skids are manufactured from 3/16 inch crush-resistant Grade 50 A-572 steel plate to reduce weight without sacrificing strength, and they mount with counter-sunk Grade 8 hardware that provides a3 mooth skid surface. The skidplates are CNC cut and formed, have a premium powdercoat finish, and retain easy-access drain plugs. 

INFORMATION: Synergy Mfg., 805.242.0397, synergymfg.com.

METAL CLOAK OVERLAND JK FENDERS

Metalcloak front and rear fenders are one-piece replacements for the factory plastic flares on JK Wranglers. Features include simplified installation; hand-welding for unparalleled fitment and increased strength; added tire clearance; and the availability of steel or lightweight aluminum. Available in raw or finished with MetalCloak’s Signature texture-black powdercoat. 

INFORMATION: MetalCloak, 916.631.8071, metalcloak.com.

ARB ROCK SLIDERS

These ARB rock sliders are manufactured from tough tubular steel, making them ideal for steep rocky terrain. You can count on these sliders to save your lower sills. For even more protection, choose the optional skidplates to be fitted with the rock rails. Available for Jeep Wranglers and Toyota FJ Cruisers, with steel tube formed into shape using an internal mandrel bender to ensure consistency and even wall thickness across all sections. 

INFORMATION: ARB USA, 425.264.1391, arbusa.com.

RUGGED RIDGE JK MUFFLER SKID PLATE

The JK muffler skid plate is constructed of 5mm-thick black powdercoated steel with a rust resistant E-coating. The skidplate mounts to existing body holes using the factory hardware and helps transfer the load of an impact away from the vulnerable muffler and to the frame. Simple bolt-on installation. 

INFORMATION: Rugged Ridge, 770.614.6101, ruggedridge.com.

EVO MANUFACTURING ROCK SKINS

Evo Manufacturing Rock Skins side armor plates are laser cut from 3/16-inch steel and CNC bent. They bolt on with stainless hardware and are compatible with factory and aftermarket fenders and framemounted sliders. Available for two-and four-door Wrangler JKs, Rock Skins are also available in aluminum for those looking to save weight.

INFORMATION: EvoMfg., 714.879.8913, evomfg.com.

DYNATRAC PRO SERIES DIFFERENTIAL COVERS

Whether you have a Dynatrac axle or not, you can add some beef to your axles. The American-made Dynatrac differential covers are cast from proprietary nodular iron and feature strategically located RockRibs to add strength and protection for internal components. The have thick, machined gasket surfaces for sure sealing and an easy-toaccess oil fill plug.

INFORMATION: Dynatrac, 714.421.4314, dynatrac.com.

RANCHO ROCKGEAR OIL PAN SKIDPLATE

The Rancho RockGear oil pan skidplate provides security for the OE oil pan under your JK Wrangler, with applications for both the 3.8L and 3.6L Pentastar engines. Constructed from 1/8-inch steel, the Rancho oil pan skidplate installs easily and features new mounting tabs to keep the body armor in place while providing convenient drain-hole access.

INFORMATION: Rancho, 734.384.7804, gorancho.com.

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Smart guide borrowing some money for your car loans

AutoCarLoansTips - If your job is not secure, it may be better to build up a bigger deposit before getting a loan. Save up as much as you can, so you can borrow less and save on interest. Before you borrow, always remember to allow for interest rate rises and anything that might affect your future income (such as changing jobs). use budget planner calculator to see exactly where you are spending your money and how much you can afford in repayments. 

If you decide to borrow, take time to compare interest rates, product features, and fees and charges. Even a small difference in the interest rate can make a big difference to what you have to pay. Shop around online to compare products or use multi-loan calculator, research published by the independent consumer group CHOICE can also help you find the right product for your needs and budget.

If you feel like you’re being pressured into signing something you’re not sure about, take more time to think things through. Check the terms and conditions of your loan before you go ahead, so you know exactly what you’re getting into – including penalties for missed repayments or for paying off a loan early.

Know who and what you’re dealing with, because anyone who wants to engage in credit activities (including brokers) must be licensed with ASIC, or be an authorised representative of someone who is licensed. If they aren’t, they are operating illegally. 

There is currently an exemption from licensing for credit assistance provided through some businesses (for example, retail stores and car yards). While the store may be exempt, the actual credit provider must still be licensed. If you are unsure who the credit provider is, ask the person you are dealing with to point out the name in your credit contract. 

Anyone engaging in credit activities (for example, by providing credit or assistance to you) must give you either a credit guide (with information such as their licence number, fees and details of your right to complain) or a written notice with details of your right to complain about their activities. 

Keep your repayments up-to-date to avoid being charged any penalty fees. Act quickly if you are having trouble making repayments. It may be difficult to face the problem, but ignoring it will only make things worse. In case you can’t make the full repayment, pay what you can. Contact your credit provider without delay.

The last but not least make sure you keep the car comprehensively insured. If you have a secured loan for your car, you will usually need to get comprehensive car insurance. But whether your car is security for your loan or not, accidents and thefts do occur and you do not want to be left with no car and a large loan still to repay.

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How do I choose the best auto car loan?

Autoloanscalculationtips - Get the best credit deal before you buy an auto car is very important thing. Be sure to get the best credit deal. This is as important as getting the best price on the car. By shopping around for credit first, you can find the best deal for you without your mind being distracted by that new set of wheels.

Beware of getting a car lease when you really wanted to get a loan. With a lease you rent the car for an agreed period of time, but do not have a right or option to purchase the car. At the end of the period, the lease is terminated and the car sold. You could make an offer for the car, but you will usually need to come up with a large sum of money to buy it – and the credit provider does not have to accept your offer. So, if you want to own the car, do not get a lease.

Check out your loan options before you go shopping for your car. Many credit providers will give you in principle approval for a loan before you find your car, so that you know exactly how much you’ve got to spend and you’ll only have one high-pressure decision to make at the car dealership.

Before you get your loan, budget for the full costs of owning a car. There are annual fees for registration and insurance. You may also choose to join a motoring organisation for roadside assistance. On top of that there are ongoing costs like petrol, repairs and maintenance – even road tolls.

You might decide to get third-party property insurance or full comprehensive insurance for your car. Third-party property insurance covers you for damage to other people’s vehicles or property that is not covered by your compulsory comprehensive third party (CTP) insurance. Full comprehensive insurance also covers you for damage to your own car.

While insurance can be expensive, think how much not having it could cost you later if you have an accident. But make sure you shop around for the best deal – it is often cheaper to arrange your own insurance, rather than going through the car dealership. Be aware that if your car loan is secured by a

mortgage over your car, you will usually need to get comprehensive insurance for your car.

Be careful of loan protection insurance sold as an add-on when you get the loan. With this type of coverage, the insurance provider pays or contributes to your loan repayments if you are unable to work due to injury, sickness or involuntary unemployment. In the event of your death, life cover will repay your outstanding loan balance. This type of insurance is usually poor value for the cost, so shop around.

Some car dealers also offer gap cover (or shortfall insurance). If your car is stolen, written off or damaged beyond repair before you have paid off your car loan, this insurance is designed to cover the ‘gap’ between the market or agreed value that your comprehensive insurer pays and the amount needed

to pay out the remainder of your loan (up to a specified limit), plus some additional costs. Think carefully about whether you need this additional coverage and make sure you shop around.

You may also be offered an extended warranty (also called mechanical breakdown cover). This is really extra insurance, to cover the costs of unexpected mechanical repairs, parts and labour (with the exclusion of normal wear and tear). But before buying an extended warranty, make sure it is really worth the money. Does the extended warranty offer more protection than the warranty that comes with the car? When does the extended warranty start? Are there any important restrictions or conditions? Check that the benefits are worth the extra money and that the extended warranty does not simply repeat items covered under the warranty that comes with the car.

You do not have to take up any of these extra options if you don’t want to, and car dealers must not mislead or deceive you about the real benefits of additional insurance coverage or your need for it. Always check the terms and conditions of any additional coverage, as they may vary from those included in your comprehensive insurance coverage. Take your time to work out what you really need and don’t let a pushy salesperson pressure you into making an on-the-spot decision.

Do not sign a business purpose declaration unless you are really using the car for business and are eligible to claim your payments as a valid business expense for taxation purposes.

By signing a business purpose declaration, you may lose valuable rights under the credit law

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