Junkyard used bumper plates building tips for the cheap 4x4 accessories

Bumpers and body accessories are the first line of defense for our off-road vehicles, but that is just one of many jobs they perform. Bumpers provide anchors for spare tire mounts and hold extra fluids and maybe even a cooler, a winch, or a Hi-Lift jack. They also provide tow points for trailers and for extracting your buddies when they get stuck (we’re sure you never get stuck). In short, these areas of your rig do many important jobs, and it’s not a good idea to cheap out on them. Or is it?

If you’re like us, you like saving a dollar and gaining the knowledge and sense of accomplishment that comes from doing things yourself. Shiny new parts with installation instructions fresh out of the package are nice, but everything old is not garbage. One place that is full of stillusable parts and ideas that could add utility and strength to your 4x4’s bumpers is the junkyard. Used parts are inexpensive, and you never know what you might find in the yard. Always keep your eyes peeled while at the dirt-head wonderland that is the junkyard.

We love pick-a-part junkyards because you never know what you might find there. A benefit of the popularity of SUVs over the past 15years is that the junkyards are now full of them. Towhooks and other usable parts are there for the takinger, buying. Need a six-lug bumper-mounted tire carrier for your Toyota? How about parts from one of the thousands of Isuzu Rodeos/Honda Passports littering junkyards around the country? We bet you could retrofit the carrier to the tube work on the back of a trail rig. All the engineering is there for you to use.

If you don’t want the tire rack, the latch assembly is pretty cool and could be modified for use in any number of projects on a trail rig.

Need to flat-mount a tire in the back of your wheeler? This junkyard-fresh mount (from an Isuzu/Honda, hence its 6-on-5 1 /2 bolt pattern) would be easy to modify into a flat surface mount. This could hold a wheel and tire for any fullsize Jeep, Toyota, Nissan, GM half-ton, and so on. What if you run a 5-on-5 1/2 bolt pattern? Look for parts off of a Kia Sportage or Suzuki/Geo of sorts. For eight-lug tire rack parts, you’re going to have to look to an H2 Hummer.

This towhook is off a 2000-2010ish Toyota 4Runner (although Yotas back to the ’80s have similar hooks). The hook itself is going to be more than adequate for most 1/4- to 1/2-ton trail rigs. It is mounted using two bolts and has a stamped anchor plate made out of 1/4-inch plate. You could use the hook on your bumper and the stamped plate mount to hold down a spare tire, a jack, a cooler, or what have you.

We can’t wait till the old road-driven H2s and H3s start to trickle into the pick-a-part yards. They have lots of cool beef y towhooks and mounts on the bumpers (not to mention Gen III engines and heavy-duty drivetrain parts). Until then, ’90s GMs, Toyota, and newer Fords all have pretty decent tow points. These huge eyelets are from a Ford Super Duty and mount inside the framerail via three large bolts. It would be easy to add one or two of  these mounts to a flat surface at the front or rear of any off-road rig.

A receiver hitch is another part that’s easy to grab from junkyards and may already fit your vehicle. Some have seen almost no use and, with secure mounting to the frame, can be a great

place to start fabbing a front or rear bumper. You can then add a receiver-mounted winch and

towhooks, or use a front-mounted receiver to help back large trailers into tight spots.

Some yards will have medium-duty flatbed trucks on site. These can be a great place to grab cool parts, racks, and usabl e steel . We always look at the back of these trucks for pintle hitches, usable recessed signal lights, towhooks, straps, and toolboxes. Pintle hitches add military style to

the back of a trail rig. Plus they are a functional place to connect a towstrap and can cost more than $100 new. At the junkyard expect to pay $15 - $20.

The rear bumper on this old camper is 2x4x0.188-wall rectangular tubing. That’s a great platform for just about any bumper.

An old rental van could provide your tow or overland rig with a heavy- duty rear step bumper. It’s even dimple-died for extra traction and has a heavy-duty hitch. Just trim down the ends to match your truck’s width and come up with a durable mounting solution, and you have a bumper with easy camper/bed access.

Lots of medium- to heavy-duty trucks have long lengths of straight channel or tube in their frames or bed that you can repurpose to make bumpers. Cut off a few feet of this truck’s frame, lay it flat, and you’ve got a great channel to build a custom winch mount. Who cares if it’s got extra holes or a little patina? We’re betting you can get it for less than having channel cut at the steel store.

Ew! Booger welds that look like they are about to break under the weight of a tow-hook are not adding utility to any truck. Mounting this hook with graded hardware would have

been easy and much less likely to fail when those crappy welds let go. Some parts at the junkyard are better left to the steel smelter. If you’re not a qualified welder, bolt on your new towhooks.

If you’re a low- budget home fabricator, you can save a dime if you have the time,  tools, and knowhow. But if you’re better at making money at your day job and you need something that’s functional, fast, and guaran-teed to work, then rely on the professional s. We love the bumpers that Randy Ellis builds. They look effortless, work well for all their duties, are custom made to fit, and border on art—but you’ll have to visit Phoenix to get one built.

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Honda Civic Type R new spec 2015

CarLoansCalculation - The 2.0-litre turbocharged engine makes 306bhp and 295lb ft, enough to hit 167mph at the end of the Döttinger Höhe straight. The helical limited-slip differential slashes five seconds from the time. Adaptive dampers provide control whether you’re fl ying at Flugpatz or braking hard into Bergwerk. An aerodynamically optimised body with a nearly fl at underfl oor sucks the Civic to the ground at high speed. There are 19-inch alloy wheels and bespoke Continental Sport Contact 6 tyres, four-piston Brembo front brakes with 350mm drilled discs, Dual Axis Strut front suspension… All of it feeds into the Honda calculator to produce an answer of 7min 50.63sec, the current front-wheeldrive lap record (as we go to press, at least!).

Project leader Hisayuki Yagi makes no bones about this being the number-one target throughout development. Not ride quality, not steering feel, not throttle response. He just wanted to be fastest. And, he says, there’s more to come: if someone beats the record with a sensible, useable car, he’ll respond, and Honda UK might have a special edition to punt.

There’s a risk, of course, that this willy-waving could result in a car that’s as suited to real roads as a jet-powered shopping trolley. So we’re giving the Type R our own challenge. I’ll get a day to download Yagi, drive the car on the road, and test its trackday-credentials on the Slovakia Ring (I know, wrong country, wrong circuit, sorry). Meanwhile, a few pages down the road you’ll find Steve Moody and the CAR road-test team in Wales with the Type R and two key rivals. The hardcore Renault Megane Trophy-R will put the Civic’s turbonutterbastard credentials under the microscope like a schoolkid with a worm, a hot day and a twisted sense of humour. The Golf GTI is also on hand, because if the Type R is severely compromised by its track-focus, nothing will expose it like the polished Volkswagen. There’ll be no stopwatches in Wales; we’re interested in which car is most enjoyable drive.

Arriving at the press launch, Honda has the last-generation Civic Type R on hand for us to pore over. It looks small, still modern, strikingly unadorned–quite a contrast to the new car. Every bit of aero addenda is said to be functional and positioned with millimetric accuracy, but it does look like someone’s let the Pin-The-Tail-On-The-Donkey kids into the garage with superglue and an Airfi x kit. Bits are stuck all over the shop.

Those red highlights on the leading edge of the splitter are also key, not for laptime, but for bragging rights. It tells the world we’ve got the top-spec GT. It adds £2300 to the £29,995 sticker, but also auto lights and wipers, parking sensors,

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Glossary on automobile carburetor

AutomobileCare - Definition of CARBURETOR is a device that atomizes fuel in air, and meters the resulting air-fuel mixture into the intake manifold. It also includes a throttle body. The carburetor is not used today on other than some racing cars. 

CARBURETOR-AIR HORN is the top part of the carburetor, in which the choke is located. 

CARBURETOR BASE is the lower part of the carburet or, in which the throttle plate is located. 

CARBURETOR CHOKE is see CHOKE. 

CARBURETOR CLEANER is a petroleum solvent for cleaning the carburetor. 

CARBURETOR FLOAT is a device much like the float in a house hold toilet tank that regulates the amount of fuel in the carburetor fuel bowl. 

CARBURETOR FUEL BOWL is a small fuel storage area in the carburetor, at the carburetor fuel inlet. Also called the float bowl because it contains the carburetor float.

CARBURETOR FUEL BOWL VENT is a vent on the bowl. It typicall y is connected to a carbon canister, which absorbs vapors when the engine is off, and it also maybe vented to the atmosphere when the engine is runing. 

CARBURETOR FUEL INLET is the threaded fitting on the side of the carburetor, to which tubing from the fuel pump is connected. Fuel enters the carburetor at this point. 

CARBURETOR NEEDLE AND SEAT VALVE is a valve at the carburetor fuel inlet that is controlled by the up­ and-down movement of the carburetor float. When open, it allows fuel to enter the carburetor fuel bowl. When closed, it stops the flow of fuel. 

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